/* СЮЗАНИ — «лазурь и майолика».
   Фон — «лазурь на глине Бухары»: абрикосовая глина и светлый абрикос, один акцент — лазурит. Бирюза — только в куполе и на фото, золото — тонкой линией.
   Заголовки — Noto Serif Display (контрастная антиква), текст — Jost (геометрический гротеск), цифры — Martian Mono. */

:root {
  --ivory: #F0D5B8;
  --sand: #EAC7A3;
  --sand-2: #E6C29E;
  --paper: #FAEEE1;
  --ink: #1B1C22;
  --ink-2: #39362F;
  --mute: #605449;        /* мелкие подписи: ≥ 4,5:1 на странице, светлой секции и полосе */
  --mute-2: #7D6D5E;      /* вторые строки крупных заголовков и разделители: ≥ 3:1 */
  --line: #E0C2A2;
  --line-field: #A28263;  /* рамки полей формы: ≥ 3:1 к светлой карточке формы */
  --lapis: #1F3B8C;
  --lapis-ink: #162C6C;
  --lapis-soft: #E3E7F2;
  --gold: #B08A4E;
  --gold-soft: #CDB48A;
  --err: #A3312A;
  --ok: #24614F;

  --serif: 'Noto Serif Display', 'Times New Roman', serif;
  --sans: 'Jost', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;
  --mono: 'Martian Mono', 'SFMono-Regular', Menlo, monospace;

  --wrap: 1280px;
  --gut: 40px;
  --r: 3px;
  color-scheme: light;
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; scroll-padding-top: 88px; }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { html { scroll-behavior: auto; } }
body {
  margin: 0; background: var(--ivory); color: var(--ink-2);
  font: 400 17px/1.6 var(--sans); font-feature-settings: 'kern', 'liga';
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; overflow-x: hidden;
}
img, svg, canvas, picture { display: block; max-width: 100%; }
img { height: auto; }
a { color: var(--lapis); text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: 3px; }
a:hover { color: var(--lapis-ink); }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--lapis); outline-offset: 3px; }
::selection { background: var(--lapis); color: var(--paper); }
h1, h2, h3, h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 300; color: var(--ink); margin: 0; letter-spacing: -0.012em; }
p { margin: 0 0 1em; }
.wrap { max-width: var(--wrap); margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 var(--gut); }
.sr { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: 12px; top: -60px; background: var(--lapis); color: var(--paper); padding: 10px 14px; z-index: 100; }
.skip:focus { top: 12px; }

/* ---------- моно-подписи и цифры */
.cap { font: 400 11px/1.5 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--mute); }
.num { font-family: var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; letter-spacing: .01em; }
.dot-sep::before { content: '·'; margin: 0 .55em; color: var(--mute-2); }
.gray { color: var(--mute); }

/* ---------- кнопки */
.btn {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; min-height: 50px; padding: 0 26px;
  font: 500 16px/1 var(--sans); letter-spacing: .01em; text-decoration: none; border-radius: var(--r);
  border: 1px solid var(--lapis); background: var(--lapis); color: var(--paper); cursor: pointer;
  transition: background .2s, color .2s, border-color .2s;
}
.btn:hover { background: var(--lapis-ink); border-color: var(--lapis-ink); color: var(--paper); }
.btn--ghost { background: transparent; color: var(--lapis); }
.btn--ghost:hover { background: var(--lapis); color: var(--paper); }
.btn .arr { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: 14px; }
.link-more { font: 500 15px/1.4 var(--sans); text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 1px solid currentColor; padding-bottom: 2px; }

/* ---------- шапка */
/* без backdrop-filter: он делает шапку «рамкой» для fixed-панели меню и та схлопывается */
.hdr { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 40; background: var(--ivory); border-bottom: 1px solid transparent; transition: border-color .2s; }
.hdr.is-stuck { border-bottom-color: var(--line); }
.hdr__in { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 28px; height: 72px; }
.logo { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); flex: none; }
.logo__mark { width: 26px; height: 26px; color: var(--gold); }
.logo__word { font: 400 19px/1 var(--serif); letter-spacing: .32em; margin-right: -.32em; }
.nav { display: flex; gap: 24px; margin-left: auto; }
.nav a { font: 400 15px/1 var(--sans); color: var(--ink-2); text-decoration: none; padding: 8px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid transparent; }
.nav a:hover, .nav a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--lapis); border-bottom-color: var(--lapis); }
.hdr .btn { min-height: 42px; padding: 0 18px; font-size: 15px; }
.menu { display: none; margin-left: auto; }
.menu > summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; height: 42px; padding: 0 14px; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); font: 500 14px/1 var(--sans); color: var(--ink); }
.menu > summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.menu__bars { width: 16px; height: 10px; position: relative; border-top: 1.5px solid var(--ink); border-bottom: 1.5px solid var(--ink); }
.menu[open] .menu__bars { border-color: transparent; }
.menu[open] .menu__bars::before, .menu[open] .menu__bars::after { content: ''; position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; top: 4px; border-top: 1.5px solid var(--ink); transform: rotate(45deg); }
.menu[open] .menu__bars::after { transform: rotate(-45deg); }
.menu__panel { position: fixed; left: 0; right: 0; top: 72px; bottom: 0; background: var(--ivory); padding: 24px 16px 40px; overflow-y: auto; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.menu__panel a.menu__link { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; padding: 16px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); font: 300 28px/1.15 var(--serif); color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.menu__panel .btn { margin-top: 28px; width: 100%; justify-content: center; }

/* ---------- арка (сквозной мотив): окно-пештак с тонкой золотой линией */
.arch { position: relative; isolation: isolate; }
.arch__clip { position: absolute; inset: 0; clip-path: url(#arch-clip); -webkit-clip-path: url(#arch-clip); overflow: hidden; background: var(--sand); }
.arch__clip img, .arch__clip picture, .arch__clip canvas { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.arch__line { position: absolute; left: -9px; top: -9px; width: calc(100% + 18px); height: calc(100% + 18px); max-width: none; pointer-events: none; color: var(--gold); overflow: visible; }
.arch__line path { fill: none; stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: 1; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }

/* ---------- герой главной */
.hero { position: relative; padding: 56px 0 72px; overflow: hidden; }
.hero__grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.05fr) minmax(0, .95fr); gap: 56px; align-items: center; }
.hero h1 { font-size: clamp(44px, 5.4vw, 80px); line-height: 1; letter-spacing: -.02em; }
.hero h1 span { display: block; color: var(--mute-2); }
.hero__lead { font-size: 19px; line-height: 1.55; max-width: 540px; margin: 28px 0 32px; color: var(--ink-2); }
.hero__cta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 14px; align-items: center; }
.hero__stats { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0; margin-top: 44px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.hero__stats > div { padding: 18px 28px 0 0; margin-right: 28px; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); }
.hero__stats > div:last-child { border-right: 0; }
.hero__stats b { display: block; font: 300 34px/1 var(--serif); color: var(--ink); letter-spacing: -.01em; }
.hero__stats .cap { display: block; margin-top: 8px; }
.hero__art { position: relative; justify-self: end; width: min(100%, 540px); isolation: isolate; }
.dome { aspect-ratio: 540 / 700; }
.dome__poster { opacity: 1; transition: opacity .9s ease; }
.dome.is-live .dome__poster { opacity: 0; }
.dome canvas { position: absolute; inset: 0; }
.hero__cap { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; margin-top: 20px; white-space: nowrap; }
.girih-bg { position: absolute; color: var(--gold); opacity: .55; pointer-events: none; }
.hero__art .girih-bg { left: 50%; top: 44%; width: 136%; max-width: none; height: auto; aspect-ratio: 1; transform: translate(-50%, -50%); z-index: -1; opacity: .45; }

/* ---------- секции */
.sec { padding: 96px 0; position: relative; }
.sec--sand { background: var(--sand); }
.sec--paper { background: var(--paper); }
.sec__head { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) auto; gap: 24px 48px; align-items: end; margin-bottom: 48px; }
.sec__head h2 { font-size: clamp(32px, 3.3vw, 50px); line-height: 1.04; }
.sec__head h2 span { display: block; color: var(--mute-2); }
.sec__head p { max-width: 420px; margin: 0; color: var(--ink-2); }
.eyebrow { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; margin-bottom: 18px; }
.eyebrow svg { width: 14px; height: 14px; color: var(--gold); flex: none; }
.rule { height: 1px; background: var(--line); border: 0; margin: 0; }

/* ---------- города: карточки-арки */
.cities { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 28px; }
.city-card { text-decoration: none; color: inherit; display: block; }
.city-card .arch { aspect-ratio: 3 / 4.1; margin: 9px 9px 0; }
.city-card .arch__clip img { transition: transform 1.2s cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .2, 1); }
.city-card:hover .arch__clip img { transform: scale(1.04); }
.city-card h3 { font-size: 32px; margin-top: 26px; }
.city-card .gray { font-size: 16px; margin: 4px 0 14px; }
.city-card .cap { color: var(--ink-2); }
.city-card__meta { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: 12px; margin-top: 14px; }
.city-card__meta .num { color: var(--lapis); font-size: 13px; }

/* ---------- маршрут (фирменная схема) */
.route { display: block; }
.route__info { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 2fr) minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 48px; margin-top: 44px; align-items: start; }
.route__info .legs { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 1fr); column-gap: 36px; border-top: 0; }
.route__info .legs li:nth-child(-n+2) { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.route__map { position: relative; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); padding: 16px 20px; }
.route__map svg { width: 100%; height: auto; }
.rm-country { fill: #F6E1CB; stroke: var(--gold); stroke-width: 1.2; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.rm-grid { stroke: #F2D3B1; stroke-width: .6; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.rm-rail { fill: none; stroke: var(--lapis); stroke-width: 2.6; stroke-linecap: round; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.rm-rail--halo { stroke: #F6E1CB; stroke-width: 8; }
.rm-road { fill: none; stroke: var(--lapis); stroke-width: 1.6; stroke-dasharray: 3 5; stroke-linecap: round; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.rm-city circle.o { fill: var(--paper); stroke: var(--lapis); stroke-width: 2; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.rm-city circle.i { fill: var(--lapis); }
.rm-city text { font: 400 15px var(--serif); fill: var(--ink); }
.rm-city--minor text { font-size: 12.5px; fill: var(--ink-2); }
.rm-time rect { fill: var(--lapis); }
.rm-time text { font: 500 12.5px var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; fill: #fff; letter-spacing: .02em; }
.rm-time--road rect { fill: var(--paper); stroke: var(--lapis); stroke-width: 1; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.rm-time--road text { fill: var(--lapis); }
.rm-label { font: 400 10px var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; letter-spacing: .14em; fill: var(--mute); text-transform: uppercase; }
.legs { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.legs li { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) auto; gap: 4px 16px; padding: 16px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.legs b { font: 400 19px/1.3 var(--serif); color: var(--ink); }
.legs .t { font: 400 22px/1.2 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; color: var(--lapis); text-align: right; white-space: nowrap; }
.legs .d { grid-column: 1 / -1; font-size: 14.5px; color: var(--mute); }
.legs .kind { font: 400 10.5px/1.6 var(--mono); letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--mute); display: block; }
.route__note { font-size: 13.5px; color: var(--mute); margin-top: 16px; }
.route__photo { margin: 0; }
.route__photo figcaption { margin-top: 10px; }

/* ---------- карточки туров */
.tours { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 40px 28px; }
.tcard { display: flex; flex-direction: column; text-decoration: none; color: inherit; }
.tcard__img { position: relative; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; overflow: hidden; border-radius: var(--r); background: var(--sand-2); }
.tcard__img img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 1.2s cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .2, 1); }
.tcard:hover .tcard__img img { transform: scale(1.04); }
.tcard__tag { position: absolute; left: 12px; top: 12px; background: rgba(250, 238, 225, .94); color: var(--ink); padding: 6px 10px; border-radius: 2px; }
.tcard__body { display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex: 1; padding-top: 18px; }
.tcard h3 { font-size: 25px; line-height: 1.15; font-weight: 400; transition: color .2s; }
.tcard:hover h3 { color: var(--lapis); }
.tcard__lead { font-size: 15.5px; line-height: 1.5; color: var(--ink-2); margin: 10px 0 16px; }
.tcard__meta { margin-top: auto; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: flex-end; gap: 12px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: 14px; }
.tcard__dur { color: var(--ink-2); }
.price { text-align: right; white-space: nowrap; }
.price b { display: block; font: 400 24px/1 var(--serif); color: var(--ink); letter-spacing: -.01em; }
.price small { display: block; margin-top: 6px; font: 400 10.5px/1.3 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--mute); white-space: normal; max-width: 190px; margin-left: auto; }
.more-row { display: flex; justify-content: center; margin-top: 56px; }

/* ---------- сюзани (история названия) */
.suz { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, .9fr) minmax(0, 1.1fr); gap: 72px; align-items: center; }
.museum { margin: 0; }
.museum__frame { padding: 18px; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); position: relative; }
.museum__frame::after { content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 8px; border: 1px solid var(--gold-soft); pointer-events: none; }
.museum figcaption { margin-top: 14px; display: grid; gap: 4px; }
.suz h2 { font-size: clamp(32px, 3.3vw, 50px); line-height: 1.05; margin-bottom: 26px; }
.suz h2 span { display: block; color: var(--mute-2); }
.suz p { font-size: 18px; max-width: 560px; }
.schools { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; margin: 24px 0 30px; padding: 0; list-style: none; }
.schools li { border: 1px solid var(--line); padding: 7px 12px; border-radius: 2px; }

/* ---------- как проходит поездка */
.steps { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); counter-reset: s; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.steps li { padding: 28px 28px 8px 0; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); margin-right: 28px; }
.steps li:last-child { border-right: 0; margin-right: 0; }
.steps .n { font: 400 13px/1 var(--mono); color: var(--lapis); letter-spacing: .08em; }
.steps h3 { font-size: 26px; margin: 18px 0 10px; font-weight: 400; }
.steps p { font-size: 15.5px; margin: 0; }
.steps-note { margin-top: 28px; font-size: 15px; color: var(--mute); }

/* ---------- когда ехать: график с цифрами */
.climate { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 340px); gap: 56px; align-items: end; }
.bars { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(12, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 8px; align-items: end; height: 300px; padding-top: 30px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--ink-2); position: relative; }
.bar { position: relative; display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: flex-end; align-items: stretch; height: 100%; }
.bar__col { position: relative; background: linear-gradient(180deg, #D3A883 0%, #DEBDA1 100%); border-radius: 2px 2px 0 0; min-height: 4px; }
.bar.is-best .bar__col { background: linear-gradient(180deg, var(--lapis) 0%, #3E5BAA 100%); }
.bar__v { position: absolute; left: 50%; bottom: 100%; transform: translateX(-50%); padding-bottom: 6px; font: 500 13px/1 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; color: var(--ink); white-space: nowrap; }
.bar.is-best .bar__v { color: var(--lapis); }
.bar__lo { position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 6px; text-align: center; font: 400 10.5px/1 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; color: rgba(27, 28, 34, .78); }
.bar.is-best .bar__lo { color: rgba(255, 255, 255, .8); }
.bars__m { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(12, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 8px; margin-top: 10px; }
.bars__m span { text-align: center; }
.bars__m .is-best { color: var(--lapis); }
.climate__legend { display: grid; gap: 14px; }
.legend-row { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; font-size: 15px; }
.legend-sw { width: 14px; height: 14px; border-radius: 2px; flex: none; }

/* ---------- вопросы */
.faq { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 340px) minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 64px; }
.faq__group + .faq__group { margin-top: 44px; }
.faq__group > h3 { font-size: 15px; font-family: var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--mute); margin-bottom: 8px; }
.qa { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.qa summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 24px; padding: 20px 0; font: 400 22px/1.3 var(--serif); color: var(--ink); }
.qa summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.qa summary::after { content: '+'; width: 18px; text-align: center; font: 300 26px/1 var(--sans); color: var(--lapis); flex: none; }
.qa[open] summary::after { content: '−'; }
.qa summary:hover { color: var(--lapis); }
.qa__a { padding: 0 0 22px; max-width: 760px; font-size: 16.5px; }
.callout { border-left: 2px solid var(--gold); padding: 6px 0 6px 18px; font-size: 15.5px; color: var(--ink-2); }

/* ---------- форма заявки */
.order { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 1.12fr); gap: 64px; align-items: start; }
.order h2 { font-size: clamp(32px, 3.1vw, 46px); line-height: 1.06; }
.order h2 span { display: block; color: var(--mute-2); }
.order__side p { margin-top: 22px; max-width: 420px; }
.order__facts { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 28px 0 0; display: grid; gap: 12px; }
.order__facts li { display: flex; gap: 12px; font-size: 15.5px; }
.order__facts li::before { content: ''; width: 7px; height: 7px; margin-top: 9px; background: var(--gold); transform: rotate(45deg); flex: none; }
.form { background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); padding: 36px; position: relative; }
.form__grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 18px 20px; }
.field { display: grid; gap: 7px; }
.field--wide { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
.field label, .field .label { font: 400 11px/1.4 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--mute); }
.field input, .field select, .field textarea {
  width: 100%; font: 400 17px/1.4 var(--sans); color: var(--ink); background: var(--ivory);
  border: 1px solid var(--line-field); border-radius: var(--r); padding: 13px 14px; min-height: 50px; appearance: none; -webkit-appearance: none;
}
.field select { background-image: linear-gradient(45deg, transparent 50%, var(--ink-2) 50%), linear-gradient(135deg, var(--ink-2) 50%, transparent 50%); background-position: calc(100% - 20px) 22px, calc(100% - 15px) 22px; background-size: 5px 5px; background-repeat: no-repeat; padding-right: 40px; }
.field textarea { min-height: 96px; resize: vertical; }
.field input::placeholder, .field textarea::placeholder { color: var(--mute); opacity: 1; }
.field input:focus, .field select:focus, .field textarea:focus { outline: none; border-color: var(--lapis); box-shadow: 0 0 0 3px rgba(31, 59, 140, .14); }
.field .err { display: none; font-size: 13.5px; color: var(--err); }
.field.has-err input, .field.has-err select, .field.has-err textarea { border-color: var(--err); }
.field.has-err .err { display: block; }
.consent { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 22px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 12px; align-items: start; font-size: 14.5px; line-height: 1.5; color: var(--ink-2); }
.consent input { width: 20px; height: 20px; margin: 1px 0 0; accent-color: var(--lapis); }
.consent.has-err { color: var(--err); }
.consent .err { grid-column: 2; display: none; font-size: 13.5px; }
.consent.has-err .err { display: block; }
.hp { position: absolute !important; left: -9999px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; }
.form__foot { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; margin-top: 24px; }
.form__note { font-size: 13.5px; color: var(--mute); max-width: 330px; margin: 0; }
.form__status { margin-top: 16px; font-size: 15px; display: none; }
.form__status.is-err { display: block; color: var(--err); }
.form__nojs { display: none; margin-bottom: 18px; padding: 12px 14px; border: 1px solid var(--err); color: var(--err); font-size: 14.5px; border-radius: var(--r); }
#zayavka:target .form__nojs, .form__nojs.is-on { display: block; }
.form.is-sending .btn { opacity: .6; pointer-events: none; }
.form__ok { display: none; text-align: left; }
.form.is-done .form__ok { display: block; }
.form.is-done .form__body { display: none; }
.form__ok h3 { font-size: 34px; margin: 12px 0 14px; }
.form__ok .num { color: var(--lapis); }

/* ---------- страницы: хлебные крошки, заголовки */
.crumbs { padding-top: 26px; }
.crumbs ol { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 4px 0; }
.crumbs li + li::before { content: '/'; margin: 0 .7em; color: var(--mute-2); }
.crumbs a { color: var(--mute); text-decoration: none; }
.crumbs a:hover { color: var(--lapis); }
.page-head { padding-top: 40px; padding-bottom: 56px; }
.page-head h1 { font-size: clamp(42px, 5.4vw, 80px); line-height: 1; }
.page-head h1 span { display: block; color: var(--mute-2); }
.page-head p { font-size: 19px; max-width: 640px; margin-top: 22px; }

/* ---------- город */
.c-hero { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, .92fr); gap: 64px; align-items: center; padding-top: 36px; padding-bottom: 80px; }
.c-hero h1 { font-size: clamp(54px, 7vw, 108px); line-height: .95; letter-spacing: -.025em; }
.c-hero h1 + .gray { font: 300 clamp(24px, 2.6vw, 36px)/1.15 var(--serif); margin-top: 10px; color: var(--mute-2); }
.c-hero__lead { font-size: 19px; margin: 26px 0 30px; max-width: 520px; }
.facts { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-top: 34px; }
.facts > div { padding: 16px 24px 0 0; margin-right: 24px; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); }
.facts > div:last-child { border-right: 0; margin-right: 0; }
.facts b { display: block; font: 400 22px/1.1 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; color: var(--lapis); }
.facts .cap { margin-top: 6px; display: block; }
.c-hero .arch { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; margin: 9px; }
.photo-cap { margin-top: 18px; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 6px 16px; }
.prose { max-width: 720px; }
.prose p { font-size: 18.5px; line-height: 1.65; }
.sights { display: grid; gap: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.sight { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 120px minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 380px); gap: 32px; padding: 32px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); align-items: start; }
.sight .num { color: var(--lapis); font-size: 13px; padding-top: 8px; }
.sight h3 { font-size: 32px; font-weight: 300; margin-bottom: 12px; }
.sight p { margin: 0; font-size: 16.5px; }
.sight__img { border-radius: var(--r); overflow: hidden; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; background: var(--sand-2); }
.sight__img img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.getting { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.getting li { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 1fr) auto; gap: 16px; padding: 18px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); align-items: baseline; }
.getting b { font: 400 20px/1.3 var(--serif); color: var(--ink); }
.getting .t { font: 400 22px/1 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; color: var(--lapis); white-space: nowrap; }

/* ---------- тур */
.t-hero { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, .95fr); gap: 64px; padding-top: 30px; padding-bottom: 72px; align-items: start; }
.t-hero h1 { font-size: clamp(36px, 3.7vw, 56px); line-height: 1.04; margin: 18px 0 0; }
.t-hero__lead { font-size: 19px; margin: 24px 0 0; max-width: 580px; }
.t-meta { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 0; margin: 34px 0 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.t-meta > div { padding: 16px 16px 16px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.t-meta dt { margin: 0; }
.t-meta dd { margin: 6px 0 0; font-size: 16.5px; color: var(--ink); }
.t-buy { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 18px 28px; margin-top: 30px; }
.t-buy .price { text-align: left; }
.t-buy .price b { font-size: 40px; }
.t-buy .price small { margin-left: 0; max-width: 260px; }
.t-buy__note { flex-basis: 100%; font-size: 14px; color: var(--mute); margin: 0; }
.t-hero .arch { aspect-ratio: 4 / 4.6; margin: 9px; }
.hl { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, minmax(0, 1fr)); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.hl li { padding: 22px 20px 22px 0; font: 400 19px/1.3 var(--serif); color: var(--ink); display: flex; gap: 12px; }
.hl li + li { padding-left: 20px; border-left: 1px solid var(--line); }
.hl svg { width: 12px; height: 12px; color: var(--gold); flex: none; margin-top: 6px; }
.prog { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; position: relative; }
.prog::before { content: ''; position: absolute; left: 175px; top: 10px; bottom: 10px; width: 1px; background: var(--gold-soft); }
.prog li { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 150px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 50px; padding: 0 0 34px; position: relative; }
.prog li::before { content: ''; position: absolute; left: 171px; top: 9px; width: 9px; height: 9px; background: var(--ivory); border: 1px solid var(--gold); transform: rotate(45deg); }
.prog .when { font: 400 14px/1.5 var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; color: var(--lapis); text-align: right; padding-top: 2px; }
.prog h3 { font-size: 25px; font-weight: 400; margin-bottom: 6px; }
.prog p { margin: 0; font-size: 16.5px; max-width: 640px; }
.inc { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 48px; }
.inc h3 { font-size: 15px; font-family: var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--mute); margin-bottom: 10px; }
.inc ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.inc li { padding: 14px 0 14px 30px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); position: relative; font-size: 16.5px; }
.inc li::before { position: absolute; left: 4px; top: 13px; font: 500 16px/1.4 var(--mono); }
.inc .yes li::before { content: '+'; color: var(--lapis); }
.inc .no li::before { content: '−'; color: var(--mute); }
.gallery { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 20px; }
.gallery figure { margin: 0; }
.gallery .g-img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; border-radius: var(--r); overflow: hidden; background: var(--sand-2); }
.gallery img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.gallery figcaption { margin-top: 10px; }
.stick { display: none; }

/* ---------- каталог: фильтры без JS (радиокнопки + :has) */
.filters { display: grid; gap: 18px; margin-bottom: 44px; padding: 24px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.fgroup { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 8px 10px; border: 0; margin: 0; padding: 0; min-width: 0; }
.fgroup legend { float: left; width: 130px; padding: 0; }
.fgroup input { position: absolute; opacity: 0; width: 1px; height: 1px; }
.chip { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 40px; padding: 0 16px; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 40px; font: 400 15px/1 var(--sans); color: var(--ink-2); cursor: pointer; background: var(--paper); transition: border-color .15s, background .15s, color .15s; user-select: none; }
.chip:hover { border-color: var(--lapis); color: var(--lapis); }
.fgroup input:checked + .chip { background: var(--lapis); border-color: var(--lapis); color: var(--paper); }
.fgroup input:focus-visible + .chip { outline: 2px solid var(--lapis); outline-offset: 2px; }
.found { margin-top: 2px; }
.catalog .tcard[hidden] { display: none; }
.nores { display: none; padding: 40px 0; font-size: 18px; }
.nores a { white-space: nowrap; }
/* фильтры без JS */
.catalog:has(#c-samarkand:checked) .tcard:not([data-city="samarkand"]),
.catalog:has(#c-buhara:checked) .tcard:not([data-city="buhara"]),
.catalog:has(#c-hiva:checked) .tcard:not([data-city="hiva"]),
.catalog:has(#c-tashkent:checked) .tcard:not([data-city="tashkent"]),
.catalog:has(#c-strana:checked) .tcard:not([data-city="strana"]),
.catalog:has(#d-chasy:checked) .tcard:not([data-dur="chasy"]),
.catalog:has(#d-den:checked) .tcard:not([data-dur="den"]),
.catalog:has(#d-dni:checked) .tcard:not([data-dur="dni"]) { display: none; }
/* счётчик «найдено» и «ничего не нашлось» — правила для каждого сочетания фильтров пишет build.py */

/* ---------- о нас, политика, источники */
.cols-2 { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 56px; }
.doc > h2, .doc > p, .doc > ul { max-width: 780px; }
.doc h2 { font-size: 30px; margin: 44px 0 14px; font-weight: 400; }
.doc p, .doc li { font-size: 16.5px; }
.doc ul { padding-left: 20px; }
.credits { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: 14.5px; }
.credits th { text-align: left; padding: 10px 12px 10px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--ink-2); font: 400 10.5px/1.4 var(--mono); letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--mute); }
.credits td { padding: 12px 12px 12px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); vertical-align: top; }
.credits img { width: 96px; height: 64px; object-fit: cover; border-radius: 2px; }
.credits td a { word-break: break-word; }
.contacts-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.contacts-list li { padding: 16px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; }

/* ---------- спасибо, 404 */
.big-note { padding-top: 90px; padding-bottom: 120px; text-align: left; }
.big-note h1 { font-size: clamp(46px, 6vw, 92px); line-height: 1; }
.big-note h1 span { display: block; color: var(--mute-2); }
.big-note p { font-size: 19px; max-width: 620px; margin: 26px 0 32px; }

/* ---------- подвал */
.ftr { background: var(--ink); color: #CFC8BA; padding: 72px 0 40px; margin-top: 0; }
.ftr a { color: #EDE6D8; text-decoration: none; }
.ftr a:hover { color: #fff; text-decoration: underline; }
.ftr__grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.4fr) repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 40px; }
.ftr .logo { color: #F5EFE4; }
.ftr p { font-size: 15px; max-width: 360px; margin-top: 18px; }
.ftr h4 { font: 400 10.5px/1.4 var(--mono); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: #8F877A; margin-bottom: 14px; }
.ftr ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 9px; font-size: 15px; }
.ftr__bottom { margin-top: 56px; padding-top: 22px; border-top: 1px solid #3A3A42; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px; font-size: 13.5px; color: #8F877A; }
.ftr__band { height: 28px; color: var(--gold); opacity: .55; margin-bottom: 48px; }

/* ---------- появление при прокрутке (только с JS и без «меньше движения») */
.js .rise { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(18px); transition: opacity .8s ease, transform .8s cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .2, 1); }
.js .rise.in { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { .js .rise { opacity: 1; transform: none; transition: none; } }

/* ================================================================= адаптив */
@media (max-width: 1180px) {
  .nav { gap: 18px; }
  .nav a { font-size: 14px; }
  .cities { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 40px 28px; }
}
@media (max-width: 1024px) {
  :root { --gut: 28px; }
  .nav, .hdr .btn--top { display: none; }
  .menu { display: block; }
  .hero__grid, .c-hero, .t-hero, .suz, .order, .route__info, .faq, .climate, .cols-2 { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 44px; }
  .hero__art { justify-self: center; width: min(100%, 420px); order: -1; }
  .hero { padding-top: 32px; }
  .tours { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .steps { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .steps li:nth-child(2) { border-right: 0; margin-right: 0; }
  .sight { grid-template-columns: 90px minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .sight__img { grid-column: 2; }
  .hl { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .hl li:nth-child(3) { padding-left: 0; border-left: 0; }
  .hl li:nth-child(n+3) { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .ftr__grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .c-hero .arch, .t-hero .arch { max-width: 560px; }
}
@media (max-width: 720px) {
  :root { --gut: 16px; }
  body { font-size: 16.5px; }
  html { scroll-padding-top: 76px; }
  .hdr__in { height: 64px; gap: 12px; }
  .menu__panel { top: 64px; }
  .logo__word { font-size: 17px; letter-spacing: .26em; }
  .sec { padding: 64px 0; }
  .sec__head { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); margin-bottom: 32px; }
  .hero h1 { font-size: clamp(40px, 11.5vw, 56px); }
  .hero__lead { font-size: 17.5px; margin: 20px 0 26px; }
  .hero__stats > div { padding-right: 18px; margin-right: 18px; }
  .hero__stats b { font-size: 28px; }
  .hero__art .girih-bg { display: none; }
  .hero__cap { flex-direction: column; gap: 4px; white-space: normal; }
  .hero__art { width: min(100%, 300px); }
  .hero__grid { gap: 30px; }
  .hero { padding-top: 18px; padding-bottom: 56px; }
  .cities { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 32px 14px; }
  .city-card .arch { margin: 6px 6px 0; }
  .city-card h3 { font-size: 24px; margin-top: 18px; }
  .city-card .gray { font-size: 14px; }
  .city-card__meta { flex-direction: column; align-items: flex-start; gap: 4px; }
  .tours { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 36px; }
  .steps { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .steps li { border-right: 0; margin-right: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); padding: 22px 0; }
  .bars { gap: 3px; height: 230px; }
  .bars__m { gap: 3px; }
  .bar__v { font-size: 10.5px; }
  .bar__lo { display: none; }
  .bars__m span { font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: .04em; }
  .form { padding: 22px 16px; }
  .form__grid { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .form__foot .btn { width: 100%; justify-content: center; }
  .c-hero { padding-top: 22px; padding-bottom: 56px; }
  .facts > div { padding-right: 14px; margin-right: 14px; }
  .facts b { font-size: 17px; }
  .sight { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 12px; }
  .sight__img { grid-column: 1; }
  .sight h3 { font-size: 27px; }
  .getting li { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) auto; }
  .getting li .gray { grid-column: 1 / -1; grid-row: 2; }
  .t-meta { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .hl { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .hl li, .hl li + li { padding: 16px 0; border-left: 0; }
  .hl li + li { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .prog::before { left: 5px; }
  .prog li { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 6px; padding-left: 28px; }
  .prog li::before { left: 1px; }
  .prog .when { text-align: left; }
  .inc { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 32px; }
  .gallery { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .fgroup legend { float: none; width: 100%; margin-bottom: 4px; }
  .chip { min-height: 38px; padding: 0 13px; font-size: 14.5px; }
  .credits thead { display: none; }
  .credits tr { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 96px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 4px 12px; padding: 12px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .credits td { border: 0; padding: 0; }
  .credits td:first-child { grid-row: span 4; }
  .ftr__grid { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .legs .t { font-size: 18px; }
  .stick { display: flex; position: fixed; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 0; z-index: 30; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px; padding: 10px 16px calc(10px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom)); background: rgba(250, 238, 225, .97); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); transform: translateY(110%); transition: transform .3s ease; }
  .stick.is-on { transform: none; }
  .stick .price { text-align: left; }
  .stick .price b { font-size: 21px; }
  .stick .price small { margin-left: 0; max-width: 160px; }
  .stick .btn { min-height: 46px; padding: 0 18px; flex: none; }
  .has-stick .ftr { padding-bottom: 110px; }
}
@media (max-width: 360px) {
  .cities { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .hero__stats > div { padding-right: 12px; margin-right: 12px; }
  .hero__stats b { font-size: 24px; }
  .logo__word { letter-spacing: .2em; }
  .hdr .menu > summary { padding: 0 10px; }
}

/* схема маршрута: на телефоне — своя версия с крупными цифрами */
.route__svg--m { display: none; }
@media (max-width: 720px) {
  .route__svg--d { display: none; }
  .route__svg--m { display: block; }
  .route__map { padding: 6px; }
}

/* фото внутри рамок занимают всю рамку */
.tcard__img picture, .sight__img picture, .g-img picture, .museum__frame picture { width: 100%; height: 100%; }
.museum__frame picture { height: auto; }
/* галочка согласия: не растягивать как поле ввода, подпись — обычным текстом */
.field label.consent { font: 400 14.5px/1.5 var(--sans); letter-spacing: 0; text-transform: none; color: var(--ink-2); }
.field .consent input[type="checkbox"] { appearance: auto; -webkit-appearance: checkbox; width: 20px; height: 20px; min-height: 0; padding: 0; margin: 2px 0 0; border: 0; background: none; box-shadow: none; }
.field.has-err .consent input[type="checkbox"] { outline: 2px solid var(--err); outline-offset: 2px; }
.rm-city text, .rm-sub { paint-order: stroke; stroke: #F6E1CB; stroke-width: 5px; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.rm-sub { font: 400 12px var(--mono); font-stretch: 87.5%; fill: var(--lapis); letter-spacing: .02em; }
.rm-legend text { font: 400 12px var(--sans); fill: var(--ink-2); }
@media (max-width: 720px) {
  .route__info .legs { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .route__info .legs li:nth-child(2) { border-top: 0; }
  .route__info { margin-top: 28px; }
}
figcaption .cap { display: block; }
.legs .t { font-size: 20px; }

/* город и тур на телефоне и планшете: заголовок → фото → детали и цена */
@media (max-width: 1024px) {
  .c-hero .hero-text, .t-hero .hero-text { display: contents; }
  .c-hero .hero-head, .t-hero .hero-head { order: 1; }
  .c-hero .hero-photo, .t-hero .hero-photo { order: 2; }
  .c-hero .hero-meta, .t-hero .hero-meta { order: 3; }
  .c-hero, .t-hero { gap: 28px; }
  .c-hero .c-hero__lead { margin-bottom: 0; }
  .t-meta { margin-top: 0; }
  .c-hero .hero-photo .arch, .t-hero .hero-photo .arch { margin: 9px auto 0; max-width: 460px; }
}
@media (max-width: 720px) {
  .c-hero .hero-photo .arch, .t-hero .hero-photo .arch { aspect-ratio: 4 / 4.2; }
}